Correct pruning of a tree is the key to its strength, health and beauty. Tree Cutting is not a tricky task, but not everyone can prune correctly. In order for your garden to delight you with fruits, as well as products or their processing, you need to learn how to regulate the processes of growth and fruiting, thereby ensuring a rapid increase in yield and maintaining it at an optimal productivity if you know the characteristics of growth, flowering and fruiting of this plant; without this knowledge, it is better not to approach a tree with a pruner. In this article, you will learn how not to prune and what the main mistakes are made by amateurs or beginners in this business.
When starting to trim, remember that each cut must be justified, if you are in any doubt, leave it or contact a Tree Cutting Sacramento specialist.
The main and the most common mistake is very deep pruning of branches. The branches should be cut into a ring, then the tree will tighten the wound correctly. Deep pruning will affect important conductive tissues near the trunk, which will subsequently lead to abnormal growth of neighboring branches, decay of the trunk, to black crayfish and other troubles.
The next common mistake is to cut a branch above the ring. This error will not lead to decay of the trunk or black cancer of the branch, but with the pruning, you will leave the unnecessary branch with the opportunity to grow, namely, awaken dormant buds with such pruning, which will lead to endless growth. Most often, such incorrect pruning can be found in a pear that shoots out shoots remaining in dormant buds.
Things You Should Keep in Mind While Pruning Correctly
- Make sure that the branches do not thicken the crown: cut off those that grow vertically and towards the trunk, as well as all shoots with signs of damage from friction.
- Clean and sharpen all your gardening equipment regularly. Take sandpaper, a sharpening stone or a special sharpener for this.
- Gather your will and remove the stems and branches from the center of the shrub.
- Leave only 1-2 main shoots. So you let light and air inside the bush and increase fruiting.
- Remove competing stems, leaving only the hardiest ones (about 50 cm long) that can withstand the heaviness of the crop during fruiting. Shorten other shoots by a third to redirect the growth energy to the setting of flower buds.
- Remove large branches and shoots first to make it easier to reach smaller ones and trim them neatly.
- Trim the blind shoots down to the bottom bud that protrudes from the outside of the bush to stimulate them.
- Check your branches regularly for signs of coral spots, mildew, rust, powdery mildew and other serious diseases. All shoots that come under suspicion, cut to a healthy part of the wood.
- Consider the work to be done when picking up the tools. Use a hacksaw to neatly cut a thick branch 5-7 cm in diameter – the pruner is more suitable for thin shoots 1 to 3 cm. A garden knife is useful for trimming cuts and cuts before processing, and the lopper will remove branches 2-5 cm thick.
- Learn when and how often to prune the gooseberries, currants, raspberries, apple or cherries that you planted, and follow these guidelines. The procedure is best done 2 times per season – in spring and autumn.
Often, when acquiring planting material for fruit plants, people forget about the most important thing, about their formation from the first year of life in a new place. After planting a plant and forgetting about it for five years, you will surely face a problem when the branches of a small tree with thin long branches are strewn with crops.
Of course, the harvest is not a problem, you were waiting for it so much, but the branches were broken off as a result of it, which were not formed in time, for a strong tree frame will lead to the tree growing crooked, oblique, half-bent, semi-broken. Some begin to tie the branches to the crown, thereby aggravating the situation, someone makes “plaster” to straighten the branch. The most correct and golden rule is the proverb “everything has its time”, which means that you need to form branches in young plantings immediately after planting, without waiting.
Another problem while performing tree cutting service in tree formation is the improper tie of the plant to the supports. They put the tree on stretchers only with cotton ropes. There can be no plastic garters, they are usually forgotten, but they grow into a tree, squeeze blood vessels, thereby feeding poorly into the crown, the tree suffers and can dry out completely over time.